Lapis Murphy Ring & Fabrication

The process by which we create our jewelry is called fabrication, which might seem uselessly tautological, but the term has a technical meaning in our craft which is NOT CASTING. Fabrication is the building up of a piece by soldering parts together. For solder we use a silver-based alloy with small amounts of zinc to give melting and flow temps a little lower than the precious metal alloys the parts are made from. This gives strengths more similar to brazing or welding processes than to the ‘soldering iron’ results of the tin and lead solders with which people are more familiar.

The piece here is the most complicated fabrication we have so far accomplished, with close to a hundred solder joints. Fortunately they are often made several at a time. A lot of them have to be made above the block though because rings.

We call this a Murphy ring. This one is set with a good-sized lapis lazuli cabachon.

The price is $299. The size measures a ten. These rings run a bit large from having a hollow place behind the bezel. These rings are hard to size but I’ll probably do it. Or I will find a stone you approve and build a new one.

Bug Rings & Braid

Here are three rings with braid bands, two in the single braid style and one in the double. In two of the rings the bezel head forms a stylized scarab design.

So we call those Bug Rings.

Counter-clock-wise from the top in the first picture the rings here are: 1. A single braid set with a hexagonal green jade ($150) 2. a single braid bug ring with an amethyst body and a citrine head ($165) 3. a double braid bug ring with a lapis lazuli body and a holley blue agate head ($196.)

The braid for the rings is made by braiding three sterling silver wires together in a piece about twenty inches long. Pieces are cut from this and all those places where they cross are soldered. This assembly is forged to a suitable evenness and border wires are soldered on. This further assembly is forged and sanded flat enough to solder onto a heavy plate which is cut out and finished before being bent into a ring shank.